Analysing Costumes
Costume 1: Nina Dobrev costume from 'The Vampire Diaries'
Fibre type: A polyester fibre would be used in this garment to give the impression of a silk fibre which is more expensive. Its medium/high degree of lustre mimics that of silk and makes it a design feature. The excellent dimensional stability of this fibre makes it most suitable for the corseted bodice of the costume which it very tight fitted, allowing the fabric to retain its shape and strength.
Fabric Structure: This corset uses satin weave as the fabric has sheen as this weave has fewer tucks which allows light reflected not to scatter as much by the fibres. This adds to the overall costume especially when there are bright lights on the set for filming. The same fabric used on the bodice of the garment is used for the draping below the waist, therefore satin weave is most suitable as it is can be made into a heavy fabric which can be used for both draping and having the strength to be pulled tight on the corset. Satin Weave is flat and lustrous with a smooth surface and used in this costume makes it look expensive and have good quality which would be worn by wealthy people in the time when this costume is set. |
Categories: Historical and Theatrical
Purpose: Nina Dobrev wore this costume on the set of ‘The Vampire Diaries’ as the character of ‘Katherine Pierce/Katerina Petrova’ in a scene set in the 1860s. The purpose of this corset was to be worn as a costume to inform the audience of the era in which the scene was set. By having an appropriate costume the viewers gain a better understanding of the scene and mood of the scene. This outfit has contemporary elements although it is a historically influenced design because modern fabrics and machinery has been used to make the garment. The overall design reflects a historical period in but also falls into the theatrical category because it was worn on a television show. |
Costume 2: Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2013 Runway look
Fibre type: A silk fibre would be used for this costume as it is an expensive and luxurious fibre and as this is a designer garment for a high end market it would be most suitable. The fineness of this fibre would create the transparency of the fabric which can be seen especially in the bodice. The lustre of the fibre creates a design feature. The smoothness of the fibre creates a soft texture making it comfortable for the wearer.
Fabric Structure: This dress uses plain weave for the main fabric which is most likely an organza. A plain weave provides a strong base for the extensive decorative techniques due to the durability of the fabric making it comfortable on the skin of the wearer. The strength of the fibres combined with the relative strength of the fabric structure is essential to the corseted bodice which is tight fitting and therefore must be able to withstand the movements of the body. As this fabric comes into direct contact with the body, its absorbency is a desirable feature. |
Category: Cultural and Contemporary
Purpose: This Dolce and Gabbana look is from the Haute Coture Fall Winter 2013 collection. The purpose of this corsetted dress is to be worn as a costume for fashion campains and magazine editorials as it is not a ready to wear apparel item that would be traditionally seen in everyday apparel. It is for this purpose that the garment must be eye catching and appealing, therefore the baroque patterned motifs make it a historical and cultural costume. |
Costume 3: Traditional Italian Tarantella Dance Costume
Fibre type: A suitable fibre type for this outfit would be cotton as it provides strength and good dimensionable stability which is necessary for a theatical dance costume as the wearer will be constantly moving and therefore stretching and wearing out the fibre/fabric. Its abrasion resistance allows the quality of the garment to be maintained and the movements of the dancer could wear out the costume while it is worn. A cotton and polyester blend could also be used because it is cheap and provides greater wrinkle resistant which is more suitable for a dancing costume which could be creased while on stage .
Fabric Structure: This outfit uses a plain weave as it creates a reasonably stronger fabric where the threads do not unravel easily. This strength is important as a theatrical dance costume must be durable and while it is worn. This weave is strong and durable which is necessary if the corset aspect of the costume has to be supportive as well as aesthetical. The poor drape of this fibre means the shape of the costume can be maintained while it is worn and danced in, and enchances its overall appearance as this property allows for the emphasises of the cut of the individual pieces of the costume. |
Category: Cultural, Theatrical and Historical
Purpose: The traditional Italian costume for the national ‘tarantella’ dance. This garment is being worn in a dance being performed on stage giving it a theatrical purpose – for performing and entertaining as well as cultural. The national colours of the Italian flag –green, white and red - have been incorperated most predominantly red and white thus showing it’s cultural influence. The peasant shirt, vest corset and wide circle skirt allows this costume to be viewed not only as a theatrical and cultural piece but also as a historical costume. |